RSS

Pages

#Tradmag Going #Digimag



I came across an interesting find today while perusing Allure Magazine's website (Zoe Saldana's on the cover this month): Beauty, the Guide. It is a beauty magazine in the digital magazine format that is lush and colourful and incredible. Let me tell you what's so amazing about this digimag. Firstly, I love that it's like Flipbook for beauty fiends in that you click and flip pages, just like you would in a traditional magazine, but the layout is familiar. Second, it looks stunning on an iPad. This digimag is definitely for tablets. The best attribute, however, is that it is interactive. Let me tell you exactly what I mean: the pages contain ads that you will see in a traditional magazine (tradmag), but you can click on the products, which will take you straight to the Bay's e-commerce site. If, for example, you check out p. 46 above, you have the J'Adore commercial embedded in the ad layout. Now this is not revolutionary by any means, hell, we're generally talking about embedding some multimedia files on a webpage, but what makes this awesome is the beauty with which a simple concept is executed. There is also a US version (below) that has all of the trimmings on a different bird--i.e. the content varies from the Canadian version, but the execution of the concept is same without losing the pizzazz.



If you are the observant sort, you will notice that when you click on the products, they link to either the Bay (Canadian version) or Lord and Taylor (U.S. version). If I were a betting sort, I would say that this is the Bay going digital and putting more $$ into their cosmetics business--to which I say, it's about time. Now, if the Bay could completely overhaul the design of their cosmetics counters and make the experience of shopping there more pleasant, I would be a convert. I swear, I haven't seen their cosmetics area change since I was a pre-teen reading Tiger Beat (anyone remember that? Lord, I just aged myself). Oh well, petit pas, as the French would say.

You Were Doing So Well

Ladies, I'll let you in on a little secret: there is not one line that does everything wonderfully. Case in point, Stila. Now you guys know that I love Stila lip stains, glosses and I also like their cream blushes. Unfortunately, I despise their Smudge Stick Waterproof pencil eye liner. Frankly, I think it's one of the worst   pencil liners I've ever used.



I have been on a quest for an eyeliner that has the following properties: wearability (it's ability to withstand prolonged wear), pigment (saturation of colour, where high pigment means intense colour saturation), ease of application (does it tug on the eye when applied?) and, of course, price. I have yet to find one that rates highly in all of these categories. Let's just say that Stila fails completely. It neither passes the two o'clock test, which is the ability of an eye pencil to stay on from before work, to the dreaded two o'clock time frame when most liners start to either run, or disappear completely; nor does it pass the workout test, which is whether or not it can withstand sweat from an intense workout. It's application is fair, meaning it can be applied without feeling like you're ripping the skin from your eyes, however it is not necessarily a smooth application, either.

The worst crime of this eyeliner is that it produced a translucent film over my contacts minutes after it was applied and I constantly had to remove my contacts, wash them and reinsert them, which did not solve the problem without me doing this multiple times. I consistently had to carry a bottle of contact solution with me wherever I went, or I would be partially blinded by this film. Now, you may be saying to yourself, maybe it was just a problem with your contacts. I thought of this too. I even changed my old contacts and put in fresh ones. It didn't help. And having worn many pencil eyeliners over the years, this was the first time this had happened. For what Stila is charging for this liner, (around $26), you'd think they would produce a product that actually works. Now I know that this may only happen to a minority of users, but with so many brands producing pencils, why take the risk? So not impressed.

Tools of the Trade

This is my 100th post (yay!), so I definitely put more effort than usual into this one. It is also part of the makeup series I talked about in the post before last, so enjoy!

Your face is a canvas, therefore you need the right tools to create the work of art that is your look. This is where good quality makeup tools come into play. However, you already posses the two greatest tools of all: your hands and your fingertips. The natural warmth of the skin often works well to blend colours and to apply (especially creamy) makeup. Like anything, you need time and practice to use your arsenal of brushes, pencils, sponges and other devices that make applying makeup fun and accurate (you may never become completely accurate 100% of the time, but hey, that's life).

When buying tools, select the best quality tools you can find--they may cost more, but trust me, you will have them for a very long time. I still have tools I bought in 1998 and they are still going strong. I like MAC tools for this: I find that they are reasonably priced and they last a long time.

Makeup tools are used for a variety of purposes: application, blending, contouring, highlighting, lining, shading and separating. I know this can seem pretty complicated, but once you figure out what they're for and how to use them, it'll become simpler. Remember this: the more compact the fibers of a brush, the more concentrated the colour application. 

Foundation Brush
A large, flat, oval brush that is used to apply liquid or cream foundation. Some people prefer to use sponges, but I prefer to use this brush for the simple fact that it doesn't soak up as much product in applying or blending foundation. This is one of the brushes I use most often.


Powder Brush
A fluffy, oversized brush used to dust on loose powder. It has a large head and soft bristles shaped into a round dome. 
Blush Brush
Another one of my most-used brushes, it is a round, medium-sized brush that is usually a smaller version of the powder brush. Used mainly to apply blush or bronzer.
Eyeshadow Brush
Expect to use this one a lot if you intend to apply any eye colour. This brush is smaller and usually flatter than the powder or blush brush. It is used mainly to sweep colour across the eyelid and to highlight the browbone.  

Blending Brush
The bristles of this brush is not as firm as that of the shadow brush, which allows for blending different colours and for softening harsh lines. I especially use this brush for blending colours from the eyelid to the crease, or if I have more than one colour on my eyelid that I want to blend. This brush also applies a finishing touch in that respect. It is usually tapered at the end. I also use it as a crease brush sometimes, depending on how mush colour I want in my crease.  

Eyebrow Brush
A firm, flat, angled brush for applying colour onto the eyebrows. The bristles of this brush are compact and is used to apply powders, creams or waxes to brows. 
Smudge Brush
I hesitated to include this one, as this is mainly used for a smokey eye and is not necessarily essential, but hey, better more info than less. This brush is compact and small and it's used for applying and smudging a dense application of colour. 


Eyeliner Brush
This brush is pencil lead-thin with compact bristles and is used to trace accurate lines along the lashes or waterline. I mainly use this one when I apply gel liners. It can also double as a concealer brush--which I didn't include in this post, as I mostly use my fingers--to apply concealer onto blemishes or other spots you may want to hide.

Lip Brush
I admit that I don't use this much, but it is a small brush, much like the eyeliner brush, that is used to apply lipstick or gloss. It offers the precision of lip application that lipstick or gloss from a tube just can't provide, especially around the edges of the lip. This can also double as a concealer brush. 

Cleaning Your Brushes
I admit that I'm not the best at cleaning brushes regularly, but it is important. It will ensure your brushes' longevity. Some makeup lines sell, and some makeup salespeople encourage you, to buy cleaning solution for your brushes. You don't need it. The important thing is to use a gentle cleanser such as shampoo. I often use chemical-free dishwashing liquid to clean mine. After rinsing it's best to shake out the excess water, gently reshape them and arrange them along the sink to dry. 

Eyelash Curler
This tool mystifies many men. It is an eyelash curler. If you have eyelashes that are not curled, you may need this. It is only to be used on the upper lashes.
Full Lash Curler

Wedge Sponge
I alluded to this instrument earlier as something I didn't favour much as an application tool, but I know that some women love them. They are mainly latex-based sponges shaped like a wedge to provide application of, mainly foundation, to various parts of the face. One advantage of the sponge is that it's blending capability is greater than that of a brush. Use a dry sponge for full coverage and a wet one for sheer coverage. You can also used a mild cleanser to clean these. 

Powder Puff
These are usually included in pressed powder compacts and if you like them, it's best to buy a couple extra as they need to be replaced every so often (they can absorb bacteria, sweat and oils from the skin that can be reapplied every time you use them, potentially causing breakouts). They are designed to apply mostly pressed powder to the face, in lieu of a powder brush. 



When One Door Closes...

I recently sampled Too Faced's Amazing Face Oil Free Close-Up Coverage Foundation and loved it. It's light, but provides full coverage and presents a dewy effect on the skin. For me, it was one of the best foundations I had found, at the time. It also melted into my skin flawlessly. Given the dewy nature of this product, it may not be the best for oily skin. Unfortunately, I was told by a Sephora salesperson that this foundation was discontinued (suffice it to say, I looked it up on the Too Faced website and saw that they were still producing it, so I don't know whether or not what the salesperson told me was accurate).



Undeterred, I decided to try a different line of foundation: Urban Decay's Naked Skin Weightless Ultra Definition Liquid Makeup in #11.0. When I applied it for the first time, using MAC's 190 Foundation Brush, I was skeptical. It didn't look like it matched well with my skin, in fact, I thought it looked a little chalky. Not impressed. I broke from my morning makeup application regime to tend to my eggs, which were boiling on the stove. When I came back, I looked like I had a new face, one which was as smooth as freshly-pressed silk. The texture looked somewhat dewy (not as much as Too Faced, so you oily-skinned beauties should like that), but smooth, not chalky anymore, and melded perfectly with my skin tone. I must admit, though, that this foundation is not as light as Too Faced, but it is not as heavy as Laura Mercier's Tinted Moisturizer and it's coverage is full, but buildable. If you have good skin, you only need one coat. If you have problematic skin, it will cover most imperfections without having to layer those spots, repeatedly. I have to say, for this quality of foundation, it is reasonably priced, better than Chanel, but not as expensive. And so the old adage is true in this case, "when one door closes, another one opens".

A Change of Course

My original intention was to write about eyeliner, which I will still do, but I probably have to step back and give an overview of face makeup, in general. I started a makeup series in 2009 that gives a comprehensive view of the main objects of makeup and what they do for the face and I want to continue on that track. 

I want to emphasize the point that makeup is not to cover up, it is used to manipulate and emphasize your own features in order to provide a look--like how a sculptor manipulates clay. You can look dainty, rock 'n roll, sultry, innocent, natural, etc. You can also emphasize different parts of your face: make your eyes larger, cheekbones higher, lips fuller, etc. The idea is to experiment and get your hands dirty like kids playing in a sandbox. Perfection is never the goal. 

Makeup Rules:
  1. There are no rules, only taste. If you don't have the taste to know what is inappropriate and what is not, then there are rules. On the other hand, I always encourage women to push the boundaries. Contradictory, I know, but everything in life requires balance.  
  2. Taste includes knowing the following: black liner around the lips and to mimic eyebrows look trashy, too much blush can look crazy, foundation of the wrong tone just looks badly. 
  3. Try colours that you are pretty sure won't work on you--that's how I found Chelsea Girls.
Kevyn Aucoin was one of the greatest makeup artists ever. His books are classics, whose advice still applies. 


        
Iman's book is also a classic, especially for women of colour. It emphasizes difficulties faced by women of all colours of the rainbow--hyperpigmentaion for darker women and redness for lighter women, for example. She truly brings her advice down to the basic level.

                  
Update: Just in case you're still confused about what constitutes bad taste, here is a perfect example: